Ningbo Greens
Baby bok choy braised with mushrooms
This recipe is adapted from Fuchsia Dunlop’s cookbook ‘Land of Fish and Rice.” Ningbo is a city in the Jiangnan region, south of the Yangtze river. Jiangnan cuisine is known for its pure flavors and “red braises.” Desert Pearl Mushrooms in Tucson has the most beautiful selection of mushrooms‒ I prefer varieties with more surface area when pan-frying.
Yield: 4-6 servings
2 lbs. small-sized bok choy or pak choi
One cluster of oyster or maitake mushrooms
OR 2 T. minced rehydrated mushrooms (dried shitake preferred)
3 T. grapeseed oil
4 scallions, white and green parts divided
2 T. shaoxing wine
2 T. light soy sauce
1 T. dark soy sauce
2 t. superfine sugar
1 t. sesame oil
Large bowl
6-8 quart pot
Tongs + colander
Wide saute pan with lid
Measuring glass or small bowl
Trim calloused ends from bok choy stems. Quarter bok choy by slicing through the white base, then gently pulling the greens apart. Slice through each half, cutting through the white part and gently separating the greens. Use a paring knife to trim away the bulk of the core, but keep it intact. Fill bowl with cool water and add a splash of white vinegar. Swish quarters in water to remove grit. (Bok choy can be very sandy. Always look and feel for grit in each layer!) If water is dirty, discard and repeat process.
Bring a pot of salted water to boil. Plunge bok choy quarters into boiling water and cook for 2-3 minutes, until water returns to a simmer. Use tongs to remove bok choy to colander (don’t pour the water into the colander as it may have sand in it). Run cold water over the bok choy and allow to drain thoroughly.
If using fresh mushrooms: Remove large stem from mushroom cluster. Trim individual stems as close to cap as needed to remove tough part. Toss mushroom caps with 1 T. additional grapeseed oil. Add a drizzle of oil to pan over medium-high heat. Once oil is shimmering, but not smoking, add mushrooms in a single layer. Cook several minutes until golden brown, then flip. (Mushrooms will easily release from pan when properly browned.) Cook another 1-2 minutes. Mushrooms should be golden brown on both sides, but still juicy. Remove from pan, season with salt and reserve.
Combine shaoxing wine-sesame oil in measuring glass. Trim hairy roots from white parts of scallions, but keep base intact. Slice in half lengthwise. Add 3 T. grapeseed oil to pan over medium-high heat. Once oil is shimmering, add scallion whites and saute briefly. Add bok choy to pan in a single layer. Reduce heat to medium and pour sauce over bok choy. Sprinkle rehydrated mushrooms over (if using). Bring sauce to simmer.
Cover and cook 20-30 minutes, until bok choy is tender and not stringy. Remove lid, allow liquid to reduce until sauce is syrupy. (Gently stir in seared mushrooms, if using, and allow to heat through). Serve with rice as a light lunch, or as one of many sides for dinner. Garnish with thinly sliced scallion greens and toasted sesame seeds, if desired.
