Vichyssoise

Creamy potato + leek soup garnished with pea tendrils

While this French soup was technically created in New York, the food memory that spurred chef Louis Diat's invention is rooted in his charming memory of leek + potato soup in his country kitchen back home.

“I remembered how maman used to cool our breakfast soup, on a warm morning, by adding cold milk to it. A cup of (light) cream, an extra straining, and a sprinkle of chives, et voila!”

Yes, it’s a cold soup. It can also be made with parsnips, celeriac (celery root) or a mix.

1 ½ c. thinly sliced leeks, thoroughly washed and drained
1 ½ c. diced potatoes, peeled (Yukon Gold, or another all-purpose light-fleshed potato)
2 T. butter
¾ t. salt + more to taste
Freshly grated nutmeg
Pinch of white pepper, if desired
3 c. chicken or vegetable stock (adjust salt if using store-bought stock, 1 t. kosher salt =  1920 mg.  sodium)
1 c. light cream

2-3 qt. saucepan
Blender or immersion blender
Chinois, fine mesh strainer or tammy
Heat-safe mixing bowl

Melt butter in saucepan over medium heat and saute leeks, 5-7 mn. (You're sweating them, don't allow any color to develop.) Add potatoes, salt, nutmeg and pepper, if using, cook 2 mn., stirring. Add stock and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Reduce to simmer and cook over medium-low heat for 30-40 mn, until potatoes are truly tender. Remove from heat and allow to cool somewhat.

If using a blender: Ladle half the soup into the blender pitcher and close the lid. Remove plug from lid and cover with a folded towel. Blend on low until well combined, then add another ladle or two. Repeat until all the soup is in the blender. Increase speed, then blend on high until perfectly smooth. Add cream and blend until uniform.

If using an immersion blender: Place the saucepan on a hot-pad near an outlet. Keep a steady grip on the handle of the pan and begin 'buzzing up' the potato pieces on low. Once most pieces are broken up, begin moving the blender in a circular motion. Switch to high once the soup becomes more uniform. Keep going until perfectly smooth. Add cream and blend until uniform.

Pour soup through chinois into bowl. Lightly cover and refrigerate. Once completely cool, serve or store in an airtight container for up to 5 days. Garnish with freshly ground black pepper, good olive oil, microgreens, pea tendrils, crispy leeks or homemade potato (parsnip, celeriac or sunchoke) chips!

The best way to clean leeks is to remove any browned, papery, torn layers. Rinse off any visible dirt. Cut off the dark green tops (usually 8-10 in. up the stalks), reserve for stock if desired. Fill a bowl with cool water. Slice light green and white parts of the leeks into thin coins. Transfer to bowl of water. Use your finger to separate the layers of each coin. This is the only way to get every piece of sand. Agitate the ringlets, then allow the sand to sink to the bottom. Once settled, lift the leeks out into a colander. Do not pour out, the water is sandy! Allow to drain thoroughly.

Putting hot liquids in a blender is very dangerous! Everything should be no hotter than 175°, and cooler is better.

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